The Path of the Forts
From the Grotto to the Lighthouse, along Capri's wildest sea
There are two Capris. There's the one with its boutiques, the Piazzetta, and limoncello sipped on the terrace. And then there's this one: the wild, silent Capri, where the path winds between the rocks and the open sea and for a few hours you're truly alone with the island. The Sentiero dei Fortini is the gateway to this second Capri—and those who walk it will never forget it.
The trail connects the Blue Grotto to the Punta Carena Lighthouse along the western side of the island, the one less frequented by tourists. Four and a half kilometers of coastline suspended between Mediterranean scrub and the sea, with three ancient military towers as stops along the way: the Fortino di Orrico, the Fortino di Mesola, and the Fortino di Pino. Built between the 9th and 15th centuries as a defense against Saracen raids, they were later rebuilt by the English in 1806 and expanded by the French, who conquered Capri in a battle at Orrico in 1808. Today they stand as silent stone sentinels overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Route details
- Length: approximately 4.5 km (one way)
- Duration: approximately 3 hours, excluding stops
- Difficulty: medium - suitable for those in good physical shape, not suitable for small children or those with mobility issues
- Recommended starting point: Blue Grotto (walk downhill, arriving at the lighthouse ready for a dip)
- Getting there: Bus from Anacapri, Punta Arciera stop for the Blue Grotto; Pino stop for the lighthouse
- Admission: free
- Best time: April-June and September-October, avoiding the hottest hours
What awaits you along the route
Everything changes at every turn. You start from the Blue Grotto and almost immediately find yourself alone: the noise of the island fades, replaced by the wind and the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks. At the Fortino di Orrico, the view of the Gulf of Napoli is already extraordinary. A little further on, a small detour leads to Gradola, a hidden cove perfect for a swim. In Mesola, you walk alongside the remains of steps carved into the living rock dating back to Roman times. The final stretch leads to the Fortino di Pino - the most imposing, 60 meters in diameter - and then, finally, to the Punta Carena Lighthouse: the second most powerful lighthouse in Italy, with its lido behind it and the sunset in front.
All along the route, majolica panels by artist Sergio Rubino tell the story of local history, flora, and fauna. An open-air museum that can be explored while walking.
What to bring
Plenty of water (there are no refreshment points along the way), hiking boots or sneakers with good soles, sunscreen, and - absolutely - a swimsuit. The final dip in the lighthouse is the island's most well-deserved reward.